The next leg from Wick to Kirkwall in Orkney required careful preparation, because we needed to cross close to the Eastern end of the notorious Pentland Firth.
This has ferocious tides but, more seriously, is peppered with rocks and deep underwater reefs that create enormous turbulence. Ships, even the navy, are wary of the Firth. In some conditions it can be deadly for small craft.
The pilot book says that passing through Pentland Firth from West to East, going with the tide of course because there’s no other option, is sttaightforward, and should give little trouble. Going the other way, westwards, is a completely different story and can be too dangerous to attempt in strong winds and tides. The layout of the rocks and reefs creates a chaotic and dangerous sea almost all the way across from the mainland to Orkney, especially with a strong west wind blowing against the tide. The most dangerous part of this wild turbulence has its own sinisterly inappropriate name: the Merry Men of Mey.
Heading later for Cape Wrath, Stromness on the Orkney west coast is the easiest place to start – but not if it means going through the Firth to reach it. We planned instead to go to Kirkwall, the main Orkney town. That involves crossing at the eastern end of the Firth and heading up the east side of the Orkney islands.
Timing is important, even so. With tides running at up to 9 knots and occasional patches of 12 knots (14mph) there’s a real risk of being pushed into the Firth if the crossing is atrempted at the wrong time with a west-going tide. So we set off just as that was fading away and soon to turn. As the current grew, it would be pushing us away from the dangers. That meant another 5a.m. start.
As it happened, there was a good north-west breeze of up to Force 5 and we sailed so fast, double reefed, that the early start paid off. We crossed most of the difficult bit before the tide really got going.
We then headed up past the islands of South Ronaldsay, Burray and Copinsay, through Stronsay and Strapinsay Firths – what a lovely ring there is to the names – and into a narrow stretch with a fast tide and overfalls called The String.
We emerged from there into a wide but sheltered Firth overlooked by the main town of the islands, Kirkwall, where we moored on a pontoon at the marina.
It was a welcoming place, with the friendly harbourmaster waiting to take our lines. We had come less than 50 miles in cold, gloomy weather, but in terms of pilotage it had proved an interesting exercise.
To be sure we had the right crossing plan, from Wick we rang Mike Cooper, the Cruising Association’s honorary officer for the Orkneys, who was very helpful.
tide by tide 