A triumph for Nuovo Trionfo

I’m glad to see a famous old Adriatic trading boat, a trabaccolo, is securely afloat again on its mooring by the Dogana, the old customs house at the entrance to the Grand Canal in Venice.

In 2016 Classic Boat commissioned me to write a piece about the rescue of the Nuovo Trionfo, built in 1926 and one of very few trabaccoli that have survived. I spent several enjoyable days talking to people involved in fund-raising and repairs, inspected the boat, which had had a major restoration in 2012, and even sat in on a discussion with the deputy mayor of Venice about fund raising.

Sunset at Punta della Dogana, with Nuovo Trionfo tucked up under protective tarpaulins. Photo Will Rodgers.

I had pre-sold the idea to the magazine as an up-beat piece about a successful project. But a nasty shock came for the enthusiastic restoration team and its backers: part of the keelson – a huge timber down the centre of the ship above the keel – was discovered to be rotten and cracked  and needed major repairs ashore. There were years to go – nine as it now turns out – before this could be called a successful restoration, so the magazine lost interest.

The trabacolo was repaired but that wasn’t the end of the saga. In 2020 it was only saved from sinking on its Dogana mooring by the prompt arrival of a fireboat which pumped it out so it could be taken to a yard for more urgent repairs. See this post I wrote at the time.

The good news is that from February 2024 till a few days ago the Nuovo Trionfo was ashore at the Casaril yard, on the northern tip of Venice, this time for a really thorough rebuild, which is described and photographed in detail on the website of the Amici del Nuovo Trionfo. (In a Chrome browser  the translate function gives a readable account in English). 

This second link is to the website of Compagnia della marineria tradizionale Il NuovoTrionfo . The spars were taken for checking to Diporto Velico Veneziano, the yacht club in Sant’Elena which organises the annual Transadriatica race.

The Nuovo Trionfo was put back on its Dogana mooring on the 20 November. As well as the structural repairs, much attractive detailing has been restored, including the pair of bright red traditional eyes at the bow.

  She has been used in recent years to give tourists a short ride on the lagoon, to raise money to keep the project going. With substantial extra funding secured for the latest restoration and the boat in seaworthy condition at last, there are plans to go to sea properly, and retrace her old trading routes in the northern Adriatic.

The impressive team of Venetian traditional shipwrights and craftspeople was helped for a time by two French trainees and later by two graduates of the master shipwrights school at Douarnenez, Brittany, famous as the home of an annual traditional boat festival.

There is international solidarity between traditional boat builders, and some have many enthusiastic on-line followers. One of the best known is the complete rebuild in the US of the British yacht Tally Ho by The Sampson Boat Company. The 7 year project was led by a British shipwright who bought the damaged hull for $1.

The rebuild went viral with a huge following on U-tube that did much to help fundraising and attracted shipwrights and apprentices from far and wide to help. There’s a teaser here for amateur philosophers: every bit of Tally Ho had to be replaced in the end. Is she still the same boat? I say yes.

Tally Ho is actually on the way back to Britain where she was built in 1910. The plan is to compete in the 2027 Fastnet, the 600 mile offshore race starting in Cowes, which she won in 1927.

Spring Fever will be back home from Scotland by then. We must save the date so we can go out to watch the start. Sadly our own Fastnet race days are long over – I last did one in 1997.

Transadriatica 2024

This year’s race from Venice to Novigrad and back felt like two different events. The first leg outwards was a hard-working disappointment, while the return home was a fast and enjoyable sail in mostly fine weather that more than made up for the earlier frustrations.

On the way out to Novigrad, only three boats out of 30 entrants managed to finish the overnight race, and everyone else withdrew part way through. The challenges that defeated most of the fleet were a combination of a north-east wind, a change in the course and the gradual then complete disappearance of the wind not long after dawn.

Fine weather at the evening start but wind from a difficult direction
Continue reading “Transadriatica 2024”

Rowing the Venetian way

A visit to Venice brought the chance to learn the basics of rowing all over again. We found there’s almost no relationship between how a Venetian rows and the way we learnt at home.

Concentrate, now…..
Photo: CMR
Continue reading “Rowing the Venetian way”

Transadriatica 2023

It was one of the best Transadriatica’s from Venice to Novigrad and back that anyone could remember. Winds in the northern Adriatic are notoriously fickle and changeable, and sometimes disappear for hours to leave a glassy calm. This time, apart from a brief lull or two on the way out, we had steady winds all the way.

Martin and I were sailing two-handed in his Spiuma, starting on Thursday evening in Venice and arriving in Novigrad early on Friday afternoon.

Receiving our prize in Novigrad for the smallest boat to finish
Continue reading “Transadriatica 2023”

Venice’s Vogalonga

The first boat to appear at the Dogana on the Grand Canal after the 30 km Vogalonga rally round the lagoon and canals of Venice was a coxed eight. It was another 40 minutes before the arrival of the first of the traditional Venetian boats, the ones everyone really wants to see.

All the boats finished further up, beyond the Rialto, and they then paraded down to the official pontoon at the Dogana, which is at the entrance to the Canal.

A coxed eight was the first to arrive
Continue reading “Venice’s Vogalonga”

May – a narrow escape in Venice

Sad news from Venice, where the historic Trabaccolo trading vessel I went to write about for Classic Boat a few years ago has been swamped and damaged by a bad leak. The vessel was saved by the pumps of firefighters who came alongside Il Nuovo Trionfo where she was berthed near the Salute, at the entrance to the Grand Canal. Apparently the boat’s own pumps had failed, though the reasons for the leak in the first place are not clear. The water flooded the engine, and videos show it swilling around at the level of the saloon table top, submerging much equipment.Firefighters alongside with pumps, St Marks Square in the distance

Il Nuovo Trionfo has now been pumped out and towed to a yard for repairs ashore, where she is now. Continue reading “May – a narrow escape in Venice”

Venice to Novigrad and back – 2017 Transadriatica race

Delighted to be sent this picture of the cup for third in class in the 2017 Transadriatica race, especially since we were the smallest boat and the oldest crew.

Martin Walker received the cup for the race, which was actually last June, at the annual dinner last month of his club, Diporto Velico Veneziano. Continue reading “Venice to Novigrad and back – 2017 Transadriatica race”

Taking your dinghy through the Venice canals

After last year’s exploration of the Venice lagoon (see this post), we learnt recently about pilotage inside Venice’s own canal system, with a tour in a private motor boat. With care, you could do the same in a visiting yacht’s tender.

Shout as you approach a junction....
Shout as you approach a junction….

A new set of municipal rules took effect on 1 April, though apparently some of its key provisions, such as limits on the speed of water taxis, were dropped after protests from their vociferous spokesmen.

In a nutshell, drive on the right except for one canal near Piazzale Roma in the North West which for obscure reasons has a keep to the left rule. Continue reading “Taking your dinghy through the Venice canals”

Pilotage in the Venice lagoon

Vaporetto
A Vaporetto at speed

Quite by accident while wandering around Venice with friends who live there, we crossed paths with a neighbour of theirs, who turned out to be one of only two women drivers of vaporetti on the lagoon.

When told we were on a hire boat she pretended to collapse in hysterical laughter, Continue reading “Pilotage in the Venice lagoon”

Round the Venice lagoon by barge

The beauty of Venice is so great that even the high-season overcrowding is still bearable. Now we’ve found a way of seeing the city in spring, summer and autumn without feeling oppressed by the sheer numbers around us. A week afloat on a barge is is the answer, because you see Venice in the context of its whole lagoon, and can slip easily away from the crowds.

Arriving, for example, at the island of Torcello in the evening, after the day-trip boats have left, is a blissfully peaceful experience. We found a mooring up a tree-lined creek on the far side of the island from the excursion landing stage, right behind the basilica. It was just an hour and a half slow cruising from Venice. In the city itself, we spent two nights in the peaceful surroundings of a yacht club marina at St Elena, in easy reach of the sights but away from the crowds.

Read the rest of the post by following this linkRound the Venice lagoon by barge.

The mooring on Torcello
The mooring at Torcello

Round Venice

A year ago we went round London by barge, and next week we’ll go round Venice, with the same seven-strong crew. We will start from a barge base at Chioggia, and plan to visit Venice itself and several other islands, including Torcello, and maybe up the River Brenta towards Padua or the Sile towards Treviso. Not sure whether the mobile internet reception is good enough to allow a daily blog, but we’ll load a picture log during the week.